Erik Decamp

Mountain Guide

June 2008
March 2008
February 2008
January 2008
September 2007
August 2007
July 2007
June 2007
April 2007
October 2006
July 2006
April 2006
March 2006
June 2007

Open mind

They came to reach the top of Mont-Blanc. They were in shape, well prepared technically and well acclimatized to altitude. When the weather obliged us to give up during our attempt on Mont-Blanc, they were disappointed, but it lasted only a few minutes. They had enjoyed what had been possible, and they were thinking of the next opportunity to come again. We had one day left together. Rainy, cold. We proposed to climb indoor, experiment something new for them. Climb, belay, lead. Their enthusiasm was the most beautiful gift they could give to us, the guides. Thank you !

The Mont Blanc did not want

Wednesday night at the Tête Rousse hut, we were facing the beauty of the world. Thursday morning, 2am, clear weather, we climb the long ridge to the Goûter Hut, 3 hours in a mixed terrain, it is exceptionally safe today, and in very good snow conditions. We may believe that the Mont Blanc is at hand, but it is not the way it works in the mountains : at 5pm a cloud covers the Mont Blanc, and a strong southwest wind kills our dream. We wait, hoping for an improvement of the weather, but unfortunately it tends to be worse. We decide to go down, taking care of everybody because the motivation is not the same now. Jean Marc and I appreciate the spirit of our team, the way our four icelanders understand and accept this decision is remarkable.

First step to Mont-Blanc

June 11th. The weather is good enough to attempt the ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul, the most accessible 4000m peak in the Mont Blanc range. It is a very good acclimatization. Due to the weather forecast for the next few days, we decided to climb it and stay in the refuge des Cosmiques after the climb. A perfect way to get used to altitude. We were two guides : Jean-Marc Boucansaud joined us. In the hut, ou icelanders could dream on the map ! Now, let's hope for good weather.


First day of a Mont-Blanc course : I go training on the Mer de glace with Hulda, Anna, Helena and Linda. From cautious steps to a steep wall, we get a basic technical preparation, in order to feel easy on the slopes of the "Big White"