Erik Decamp

Mountain Guide

Here is a selection of seven ascents that have been particularly important to me for some reason.

1980, Ganesh IV / Nepal, first ascent. "The very first one"
I was invited to this expedition, and it was my first time in Nepal. It was in a remote area. This well structured expedition led by experienced guides has some problems that tought me a lot for the future. We reached the top and had finally no major problem. I realized how thin the limit is between success and drama.

1982, Pumori / Nepal, south pillar. "The first as a leader"
It was the first repetition of this pillar in alpine style. A beautiful project for four close friends, this first experience as la leader has been very stimulating. On the D-day, one of us was sick. We waited for him and reached the top together.

1987, Muztagh Ata / China, ski ascent. "The best guiding experience"
A fantastic travel through central Asia, meeting people and ways of life that reminded us very ancient times. Climbing up to 74OO on skis, and skiing down. Some of us did the summit to two times, just for fun.

1987, Jannu / Nepal, north face. "The tricky birth"
Many events happened during this expedition. Late October, Pierre Beghin and I started our climb on the japanese route of the north face, after an unsuccessful attempt on a new route. The wind was blowing hard during four days. We knew we wouldn't reach the top if it didn't stop. It stopped for the summit day. It was oct 25th. My son Guillaume was born on 24th, 3 months prematurely. The real adventure was not on Jannu.

1990, Everest / Nepal, south face. "The highest one"
Having already climbed some big mountains, I thought Everest would just be higher, but not essentially different. Actually, I was surprised, it was different. And good.

1993, Aconcagua / Argentina, south face. "Happy birthday"
Cimbing the south face of Aconcagua was one of my old projects. I invited Claude Jaccoux in his 60st year. It's good to have such a birthday gift to offer to a old friend.

1996, Antarctica/ "The ultimate experience"
Gone for a climbing trip with the perspective of a few first ascents, we were stopped by an accident. Catherine Destivelle had an open fracture on top of a big mountain. We had to go down by ourselves before being rescued.